If you want to see the most brutal dictator in the world at present, go to Rajghat in Delhi, the site where Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi was cremated on 31 January 1948. It is a special sight indeed.
The timing is early morning on 25 October 2004. Senior General Than Shwe, the supreme head of the Burmese military dictatorship, along with his entourage, comes in through the main entrance. The grass is well manicured, the flowers placed by the Horticulture Department are immaculate, and a sickly-sweet smell reminds you that someone has placed incense sticks in all the right places. Hidden speakers gently release Gandhi's favourite hymn into the calm morning air, Vaishnav jan to taynay kahyeeye. Translated, the softly intoned words say:
A godlike man is one,
Who feels another's pain
Who shares another's sorrow,
And pride does disdain.
Who regards himself as the lowliest of the low,
Speaks not a word of evil against any one
One who keeps himself steadfast in words, body and mind,
Blessed is the mother who gives birth to such a son.
Appropriately, Than Shwe's wreath is made up of white flowers. Two bodyguards are carrying the wreath, and walk a step ahead of the Supreme Dictator. The bodyguards are in dark suits and ties, clean shaven, smart and tough. They are all wearing new white sneakers. The Supreme Dictator himself is impeccably dressed in a dark suit and tie, but he wears black leather shoes. The entourage moves slowly. General Shwe's aide instinctively flicks a speck of dust off of the back of the bodyguard carrying the wreath – just in case the general sees it and disapproves. Almost everybody looks pleasant, although Shwe has no expression on his face, and the gathered Indian dignitaries seem a little apprehensive.